Useful information on countries

Just a few notes on some things we could have done with knowing before we got there, but which weren’t in the guide books. I recommend reading Sahara Overland, by Chris Scott, and Africa Overland, by Bradt Travel Guides; the Michelin 741 map; and, by default, the Lonely Planet guide for West Africa.

Morocco & Western Sahara

Money

The currency is Dirhams, currently about 15 to the pound.

Travellers’ Cheques can be changed in banks, but take your original receipt with you. Cash can be exchanged at banks too. The Moroccan way to queue is to leave a document in the long line of documents on the counter to mark your place; be prepared for a long wait, although some banks have a separate counter for money changing so ask first.

Moroccan Dirhams are restricted currency, so don’t take any out of the country with you as you won’t be able to exchange it away from the borders.

Vehicle Insurance

I got a Green Card from my insurer (cis.co.uk) which covered me for Morocco. This cost £30 but also covers various countries in Europe.

Camping

There are plenty of campsites around, and you can buy a book in French which lists all of them, including GPS coordinates. This is available in some campsites and some Marjane hypermarkets. Bush camping is not legal but in Western Sahara it’s very straightforward, because you can pull off the road and disappear into the desert where nobody cares less.

Water

The easiest way to get water is in campsites. Some have a separate tap for drinking water.

Mauritania

Money

The currency is Ouguiya, currently about 500 to the pound.

Cash can easily be changed on the black market; you won’t have any problems finding somebody to change it for you. You get a better rate from the touts than the bank, but negotiate. Travellers’ Cheques can only be changed in banks, or in some exchange counters during bank opening hours only.

When you arrive at the northern border, you may have to declare “all” your cash (ie as much as you feel like declaring), and you will be expected to get receipts for any money you change, to show you’ve exchanged using the official channels. However, some of the black market exchangers will be able to get an official receipt for you anyway. We found when we left the country, we weren’t asked to turn in the receipts after all, and when we went north through Mauritania we weren’t given a form at all. So it doesn’t seem like it’s that important.

Don’t take money out of Mauritania as it’s totally useless anywhere else, and nobody will exchange it apart from touts at the border, who will give you lousy rates.

Vehicle Insurance

This is specific to Mauritania and must be bought from an insurance office, in all major towns including Nouadhibou and at the Rosso border compound. The insurance offices in towns are only open weekdays and generally close at lunchtime on Friday, so if you arrive at a weekend you’ll be immobile until you get insurance, which will probably be checked at the first police checkpoint. It costs around €20 for two or three weeks.

Camping

There are campsites in major towns. Like Western Sahara, it would be easy to bush camp, particularly in the north of the country where you’re unlikely to bump into anybody who cares.

Water

We got our water from campsites; for example Camping Sahara in Nouakchott has drinkable water from an outside tap.

Senegal

Money

The currency is West African Francs, CFA, currently about 1,000 to the pound.

Easy to change in banks and exchange outlets. If the banks are shut, various shops and other places will change cash for you, for reasonable (negotiable) rates; ask around or some local hassler will find one for you.

Vehicle Insurance

At the Diama border, a wise old lady will issue you official insurance which, if you wish, can cover the ECOWAS countries, ie all of the countries in West Africa south of Mauritania: Senegal, Mali, Gambia, Guinea, Guinea Bissau, Sierra Leone, Liberia, Ivory Coast, Mali, Burkina Faso, Ghana, Benin, Togo, Niger, Cape Verde and Nigeria. This saves worrying about insurance anywhere else. I presume Rosso has similar, but more aggressive, facilities.

Camping

There are campsites in some of the larger towns, but not always: for example, in Kaolack we had to shoehorn ourselves into the gateway of a third rate Auberge. Bush camping seems straightforward as long as you keep out of people’s way.

Water

We didn’t get water in Senegal so we have no idea.

Gambia

Money

The currency is Dalasi, currently about 50 to the pound.

Money can be exchanged in banks. Touts will offer to exchange money at the borders, but they’ll give you a lousy rate and it’s not necessary. Camping Sukuta will exchange money too.

You don’t need Dalasi for the Gambia River ferry crossing from Barra to Banjul, because you’ll be expected to pay in CFA if you are in a European vehicle.

Vehicle Insurance

Gambia is an ECOWAS country so can be covered by insurance bought in one of the other ECOWAS countries.

Camping

Camping Sukuta is the only campsite we saw in Gambia, although Tony is trying to change that. Bush camping is fine if you keep out of people’s way, or make friends with a local and park outside their compound.

Water

The villages have wells, which you can use to fill your jerry cans; some of the water is of drinkable quality and the metal hand-operated pumps apparently have built-in filters, but you can always throw some Puritabs in to make sure.

Guinea

Money

Guinea also uses West African Francs, CFA, at around 1,000 to the pound.

You can easily exchange cash on the black market. We exchanged $300 in the petrol station in Koundara. Be aware of what the current rates are, such as shown on www.xe.com/ucc. We didn’t try to exchange Travellers’ Cheques in Guinea.

Vehicle Insurance

Guinea is part of ECOWAS so insurance can be bought to cover it as well as the other ECOWAS countries before you get there.

Camping

The best bet is probably to find an Auberge with space for you to park up, or bush camping is very easy.

Water

In the mountains water is hard to come by, so take it with you if possible, rather than drain the already depleted wells. In the lowlands I expect it’s probably like Gambia, but we didn’t fill up there.